Venus Line

The Venus Line is one of Japan’s premier mountain winding roads located in Nagano Prefecture. With its overwhelmingly beautiful scenery, a series of gentle curves, and the most pleasant climate, it captivates car enthusiasts and driving aficionados alike. I’ve visited many times in the past and have driven it with various beloved cars.

This time, I felt the urge to take my air-cooled Porsche (964 model Porsche 911) to the Venus Line, so I planned a tour. Typically, my tours span multiple prefectures, covering significant distances in a single day. However, this time, I decided to focus on Nagano Prefecture and its surroundings to savor the experience thoroughly.

Day 1

Heading to Nagano from Gifu

The weather forecast for the first day of the tour was unfortunate. While it wasn’t raining in Kansai, the Chubu region was under a heavy rain forecast due to a stationary rain front. Checking the rain cloud radar, it seemed possible to avoid the rain clouds just barely.

Simply heading straight to Nagano wouldn’t be interesting, so I decided to aim for Nagano via Gifu this time.

I hit the highway, driving east on the Meishin Expressway. Having refilled the air conditioning gas and just changed the tires to Porsche-approved Michelin Pilot Exalto 2 (PE2), the 911 was running smoothly.

The ride was very comfortable, allowing me to drive on the highway with peace of mind.

However, I encountered a tremendous downpour along the way. By the time I was heading north on the Tokai-Hokuriku Expressway, all cars were driving at 50-60 km/h. With visibility so poor, I turned on the rear fog lamps to alert the cars behind me.

The rear spoiler remained automatically raised, and rain must have been mercilessly entering the engine compartment. The air-cooled Porsche’s engine compartment is designed to allow water to enter directly from above, and with the rear spoiler raised, the opening becomes even larger.

Is it really okay for so much water to get in? I wondered, but being a Porsche, they must have tested for this during development. So, I continued driving through the heavy rain without worrying too much.

I took shelter from the rain at a service area along the way. The soaking wet engine compartment was completely fine, proving that rain poses no issue at all.

I exited at Gujo Hachiman IC and drove along the ‘Seseragi Highway’ from Prefectural Route 320 to Prefectural Route 73. I’ve driven this highway many times, but personally, I’m not a big fan. The road is excellent, but there’s usually a fair amount of traffic, and few opportunities to overtake. However, this time, there was no one around. The Seseragi Highway was completely mine.

It’s no wonder, as no one would be driving in such heavy rain.

I took full advantage of the opportunity to enjoy the Seseragi Highway. While being cautious due to the rain, I carefully maneuvered the 911, paying attention to each curve and the weight distribution.

Lightly applying the brakes to ensure traction on the front, I guided the car through the curves, feeling the flex of the front tires. Then, I pressed the accelerator to apply traction to the rear, maintaining a stable posture as I sped through.

Repeating this process, it felt almost like riding a motorcycle. With the 911, it’s not just about steering; it’s about using the accelerator and brakes to navigate the curves.

From Bijin Highway to Nagano

Heading slightly south from Takayama, I drove along the Bijin Highway. This is another great road, with well-maintained and beautiful stretches. It’s a road where high-powered cars truly shine. I took a break at the Bijin Highway Observatory, but unfortunately, the weather obscured the view of the Alps.

Continuing on Route 361 towards Nagano, this road is apparently called the ‘Hida Buri Highway.’ It’s a wide, two-lane road that’s perfect for a pleasant drive. The pace was smooth, making it one of the ideal roads for driving.

By the time I reached Ina City, it was already getting dark. Since it was getting late, I decided to take the highway from Ina IC and head towards tonight’s accommodation near Suwa IC.

Day 2

Early Morning on the Venus Line

As forecasted the day before, the rain had cleared by the morning of the second day, leaving beautiful weather. Eager to reach the Venus Line before the weather turned, I quickly got ready and checked out in a hurry.

I started the air-cooled engine and, while warming up the moving parts, leisurely drove through the streets of Suwa. From the city, I headed towards Kirigamine via Prefectural Route 40. I’ve traveled this road many times and it’s one of my favorite winding roads.

Fortunately, there were no cars ahead. The air conditioning was off, windows fully open, and the sunroof wide open. I soaked in the raw air-cooled sound as I raced through the greenery, climbing in altitude. It was so blissful, I felt like crying. The wonderfully clear air, the cool temperature, and the sound of birds combined to create the perfect driving scenario.

Upon reaching Kirigamine, the temperature was 20°C. It was so cool, it didn’t feel like summer, and it was almost chilly in short sleeves. While weekends see a lot of tourist traffic, making it hard to drive freely, the roads were quite empty on this weekday morning. I drove the 911 back and forth several times, enjoying the contrast of the grasslands, distant mountains, and sky.

Fortunately, Mount Fuji also made an appearance. This is a breathtaking viewpoint no matter how many times I visit. After taking some photos, I set my sights on Utsukushigahara.

I drove the 911 further north along the Venus Line from Kirigamine.

The road from here is equally wonderful, a quintessential winding road. Keeping it in third gear, I picked up the pace, clearing one curve after another. Leaving only the sound of the air-cooled engine echoing through the mountains, the 911 arrived at Utsukushigahara.

At over 2,000 meters above sea level, Utsukushigahara was even chillier. With a bit more cloud cover, the view wasn’t as expansive. Feeling a bit peckish, I took a break to enjoy some oyaki, a Nagano specialty.

Heading to Tateshina Skyline

Instead of retracing my steps, I took Prefectural Route 178 and Route 142 heading east. Along the way, I turned right onto Route 152, heading south towards Shirakaba Lake. This Route 152 is also quite a road. It’s one of the approaches to the Venus Line from the north, featuring gentle winding roads with a straight-line focus.

From Shirakaba Lake, I headed towards the Tateshina Skyline. The first half has rougher pavement and loose stones, with some narrow sections requiring caution. At times, thick fog completely obscured visibility, a reminder of how quickly mountain weather can change.

Nevertheless, I carefully drove the 911, and as I crossed the Oogawara Pass, the road conditions gradually improved.

As I approached Saku City, the Tateshina Skyline transformed into a smooth, fast-paced downhill road. It felt as if the 911 was rejoicing.

From Saku City, I took the Chikuma View Line through Ueda City to Chikuma City. Although my destination for the night was Nagano City, it was a bit early to head straight there, so I decided to take the Alps View Road from Omimura.

I had high hopes for the views along the Alps View Road, but they weren’t as impressive as expected. However, stopping by the Ooka Alps View Park offered quite a nice view. It might be even better during a season when the mountains are more snow-capped.

After leaving the park, I headed towards Nagano City. I parked the 911 at the far end of the hotel’s spacious parking lot, taking precautions against any potential parking mishaps, and checked into the hotel a bit earlier than usual.