My husband recently went on a tour of Shikoku in a air-cooled Porsche 911 (964). After maintenance, the 964 was reportedly in excellent condition, and he had a great trip, so he wrote up a travelogue. Please enjoy reading it.

Touring in an Air-Cooled Porsche 911 (964)

It’s been two and a half years since we bought it. The mileage has exceeded 15,000 km, and since refreshing the suspension, we’ve driven about 3,000 km. The engine runs better the more it’s driven and revved, and the suspension seems to have lost its initial stiffness, becoming even more supple.

It’s really come together nicely, and I feel I truly understand the old saying, “Driving is the best maintenance for a Porsche.”

This time, we took advantage of the weekend for a tour. Although we considered going with the 992 or the 981 Boxster GTS, since we used those on our last trip, we decided to take the 964 air-cooled Porsche 911 this time.

We folded down the rear seats of the 911 and packed a Porsche genuine RIMOWA suitcase inside. Securing the suitcase with the seatbelt, we loaded camera gear in the front trunk, prayed for a safe journey, and fired up the air-cooled flat-six engine.

Since we left in the late afternoon, we booked a hotel in Tokushima city. Our first destination was Awaji Island. This was the first time driving on a proper highway since refreshing the suspension.

Porsche 911, Heading Straight to Awaji Island

Traffic on the Awaji Naruto Expressway moves fast. The 964 darted through lanes like a water strider, overtaking slower cars with ease. This kind of movement can’t be mimicked by the latest 992 or even the GT3. The sensation of sliding sideways across lanes is incredibly satisfying.

As I’ve written several times before, the words of Arisue Tokudaiji resonate here:

“Imagine you want to cut in somewhere. A Porsche is that car that’s already there the moment you think it. Before you realize it, it’s already there. That’s the kind of car it is.”

This perfectly describes the 964’s behavior, and it’s my favorite thing about it.

The suspension refresh really made a big difference. The car is very stable, and the ride comfort has improved. Most notably, the stability against crosswinds feels completely different from before. That said, since the car is originally quite sensitive to crosswinds, you still need to hold the steering wheel firmly on windy highways.

We sped down Awaji Island and exited at Naruto-kita IC. We drove the usual Naruto Skyline. Using 2nd and 3rd gears, we climbed the Skyline and took a break at the Shikami Observatory, where a beautiful Audi A3 sedan was parked under a cherry blossom tree.

It looked like Brilliant Red, the same color as the TT I used to own. Judging by how it was parked, the ride height, and the wheels, I guessed the owner must be a serious car enthusiast.

However, the owner was nowhere to be seen nearby. The car was so beautiful that I couldn’t resist taking some photos.

Then, casually looking back, I saw a tall woman in her twenties holding a camera, taking pictures of the A3. When I said, “Sorry for taking photos without asking!” she replied, “No, it’s okay.” It turned out she was the owner.

When she asked, “Are you the Porsche owner?” I said yes, and she kindly gave me the best photo spot under the cherry blossoms. We then took turns photographing the 964 for a while.

“Take care!” we said to each other before I headed toward Route 11 along the coast. This road felt wonderful. It was wide and had little traffic.

On the right, the Seto Inland Sea was visible, making for a perfect setting. There are many scenic coastal roads, but few where you can enjoy a relaxed pace so comfortably. This one was fantastic.

I decided to explore and turned onto Prefectural Route 1. I expected it to be narrow, and sure enough, it was (laughs). But it wasn’t a “narrow, hard-to-drive road” (酷道). It was a winding 1-1.5 lane road with no traffic, so I could drive freely.

Given the 964’s width, even roads this narrow are plenty enjoyable.

I visited the Osaka Pass Observatory near the summit. It was a quiet spot with no people, but the view was beautiful. For some reason, the Seto Inland Sea always feels nostalgic to me.

From there, I hurried to the hotel in Tokushima city, descending the mountain quickly. After arriving, I checked the route for the next day and went to sleep.

Air-Cooled Porsche 911, Touring Day 2

At 6:30 AM, since the hotel was room-only, I left immediately without breakfast.

Now the real tour begins. I eagerly drove the Porsche onto Route 195. This is a superb country road stretching over 100 km from Tokushima to Kochi. I had driven it last year around the same time in the 964, but it’s always a joy. It’s a famous road packed with various driving scenarios, with little traffic and very easy to drive.

In the mountains, the weather suddenly changed to heavy rain. Driving the 964, desperately wiping rain with its short wipers, made me feel very attached to the car.

The harmony of the air-cooled engine sound and the rain hitting the windshield and roof is delightful. Maneuvering the compact cockpit and heavy steering through the winding roads felt like more than driving.

This is not driving. This is piloting.

This is the joy of an air-cooled Porsche.

Descending the mountain, the rain stopped and blue skies appeared. The body, which had been polished beautifully, was now dirtied by the rain, adding a nice “travel feel.”

Passing through Kochi city, I turned onto Route 194. This is another favorite fast road I often take when visiting Shikoku. This time, I didn’t go all the way to Saijo city but turned left onto Route 439 halfway through.

Route 439 is famous as a narrow, hard-to-drive road, but around here, the pavement is good and the road wide enough to be a very pleasant drive.

Full throttle in 2nd gear, I climbed the mountain, lightly lifting off the throttle to shift weight to the front, then turning the steering wheel. As soon as the car changed direction, I floored the accelerator again, applying strong traction and powering through the corner. The sharp direction change and the sensation of the rear swinging around is unique to the 911.

If the timing of the throttle or steering is off even slightly, mistakes show immediately in the driving. But when perfectly timed, the car turns with unmatched pleasure.

The 911 rewards you more the better your driving skills become.

Entering Route 33, the rain intensified. Traffic increased closer to Matsuyama, but until then, it was a fast road. Passing the sign for Shikoku Karst, I kept my pace through the heavy rain. While air-cooled Porsches might seem unstable in rain, the 964 is completely safe and stable.

You can drive it with confidence.

Approaching Matsuyama city, I avoided the city and headed north on a road near Hirai town to reach Route 317. It seemed like a shortcut, with moderate traffic but a straight, fast road.

Arriving at Imabari, I entered the Shimanami Kaido. I drove the Porsche to my next main destination, Omishima Island. There are many islands on the Shimanami Kaido, but Omishima is highly recommended. If you ever visit the Shimanami Kaido, be sure to stop here. Especially in the early morning or late afternoon, it’s peaceful and pleasant.

Exiting at Omishima IC, I drove clockwise around the island. The roads are excellently paved, reasonably wide, and feature gentle curves. Best of all, the sea is close by, which feels wonderful. It’s not a road for aggressive driving, but perfect for a relaxed, leisurely cruise at your own pace.

Driving alone is great, and it’s also a lovely spot to bring your partner or spouse to enjoy the scenery.

Previously, I also visited the “Furusato Ikoi no Ie” with the GT3, and I took my time exploring the island. The cherry blossoms on Omishima bloom a bit late and were still beautiful. I found a small stream where cherry blossoms and rapeseed flowers contrasted beautifully and took a short break. As I took photos, the sun began to set.

The daytime is lovely, but the coastal road at dusk, with the contrast of sea and sky, is even more stunning.

I wanted to explore the island more slowly, but as night fell, I drove the Porsche toward the hotel in Fukuyama city.

By the time I neared the hotel, it was already 7 PM. Considering I had been driving since 6:30 AM, that’s over 12 hours on the road. It’s rare for me to drive this long, and my shoulders were a bit stiff, but the driving feel of this Porsche makes me want to keep going.

It moves like an extension of my body, and the quality of driving directly affects the car’s behavior. That’s the charm of an air-cooled Porsche. Wrapped in analog engine sounds, sometimes lost in thought while cruising a straight country road, and other times seriously attacking mountain winding roads.

The Porsche cockpit offers a luxurious space and time all to yourself.

That night, I reviewed the route for the next day and went to bed early. Tomorrow’s journey to Mount Daisen and the Shoten Kaido continues in Part 2.